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I was angry that he used the words that "I" had fried it and I clarified with him. It has become completely unusable.I just got of the phone with D-Link technical support. To be completely sure I said "You are saying that your software fries your products, is that correct" to which he replied "Yes".On the upside, he said they will send me another access point. I upgraded the firmware on this device a couple of weeks ago to version 2.2. At least not until they can keep their software from frying their hardware. I am not joking, the gentleman on the other end told me that I had "fried" my card upgrading the firmware.
On the downside I have not received the email he said I would get with instructions.I don't think I will ever purchase anything from D-Link again. I had used this device without a problem for a year. I now cannot download a 5MB file without it dropping its connection 10+ times. He said multiple times "Yes, the firmware fried the access point".
The problem has been visible on the Internet for a year. This happens with no encyption turned on, or using the 64 or 128 bit modes.This is a common problem with the new firmware, and DLink refuses to acknowledge the problem, or to post a "downgrade" to restore the original firmware. If not, then look elsewhere and avoid DLink products. I purchased the 1000AP and it works perfectly out of the box, with the original firmware installed. Pretty simple to set up and operates flawlessly.However, as soon as I upgraded to the new firmware from the DLink site, the product dropped connections so often that it is unusable. I have gone from a DLink admirer to never wanting another one of their products.If you have purchased this unit, then do NOT install the firmware.
:( I just wish the installation could be easier. Sorry but it's not that simple.I spent the last 3 hours trying to configure it and still not works. It says in the quick install guide to just plug the unit. No configuration is needed if you are networking with other d-link products. The AP Manager don't recognize it and when configuring it manual, the MAC number gives me problems.Right know I'm writting to d-link support for advice.
Unfortunately, D-Link provides poor software and documentation for not only their cards, but also their Access Points. The reason you need to hook up your existing ethernet card is because the router must assign your PC an IP. If you don't have one, I would highly reccomend getting the D-Link wireless router advertised on Amazon. It is so bulky. You will most likely need to enter the MAC address, but that is very simple.
Also keep your wireless card in the computer. Just f/y/i, the AP is asigned an Ip by the router. All in all, a good router, but seemingly quite expensive here on Amazon.After reading other reviews, I purchased the 650+ cards. It is listed for a lower price anyway. I highly reccomend doing so. If you have any sort of landline LAN or an existing router, plug your old ethernet card into your PC or laptop and plug that into the network. However, everything he/she said allowed my new wireless LAN to work flawlessly.
Thee actual AP is stylish and small, although I hate AC adapters. Now run the wizard and it should detect your true network settings. Spend the extra few dollars and get the 650+ cards, especially if you eventually upgrade to the D-link 22mps wireless router. I get solid reception, varying between 75% and 100% throughout my entire hosue (cordless phones and all). Unfortunately, I had the same issues as droptiks. There must be a better way.but I digress.The access point is simple to install physically, but software installation is tricky. All in all, keep that old router.
Buy this product elsewhere, try it out, and return it if you don't like the range. I would bet it would be sufficient for most people. In one of the more glaring examples of designing products without keeping the customer in mind, D-Link's algorithms for translating string passwords to their hex equivalent is different on their access points and their cards. The only serious problem is it does not pick up an IP address from DHCP, as advertised; assigning one manually to the access point is required.For WEP, make sure to use the hex translation of your password for both the access point and any cards. Prices have gone up again, but you will still do better elsewhere.This product is a little difficult to configure. First of all, while I'm a dedicated Amazon evangelist, go buy this somewhere else: Amazon is charging twice as much as what I bought it for by doing a simple search for it on CNET. (Anyone with a decent amount of networking knowledge should have no problems though). So you could have typed in the same password on both your D-Link access point and your D-Link wireless card (let's say the 650 - only $40 at Office Max), and your connection would fail.Range is quite limited; another customer was quite accurate when he/she said that you have to treat access point manufacturers like cordless phone manufacturers: don't believe their range claims.
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